Tuesday, December 18, 2012

Kabones for all!

A few weeks ago, I tagged along with my NGO worker friends to go on a "Community Led Total Sanitation" certification day. My friends work for a project called RANOHP which works on issues relating to hygiene and sanitation, latrines, hand washing, and clean water. A group of 7 of us (health workers, the head of the district, the adjoint mayor, myself and some other people who I don't know who or why they were there) hiked out to two villages. 

We went out to a small village, where supposedly, everyone uses latrines. We had a few items on the agenda. First, we visited the area where the village used to go to the bathroom before they built latrines. The group of 7 used their high tech investigative skills to look for evidence of human shit....It was pretty funny seeing the head of the district turning over rocks and leaves looking and smelling around for human shit....but they didn't find any! Then we went to look at all the new latrines they built, and then the head of the district held "court." Or at least that's what it seemed like to me. The head of the district called people up, one by one, and asked them about their bathroom habits, where they went to the bathroom, which latrine their family used, etc. etc. etc.

Showing off her new latrine.
A super clean village!
Finally after being somewhat convinced that everyone used latrines, we awarded a certificate and plaque to the village. We hiked to a few other villages and did the same thing. And while its great that these villages all use latrines, there are still many (mine included) where people go to the bathroom wherever they feel like it....including outside my door. Little by little...

Looking for human waste....
These people use latrines. Yay





Wednesday, November 7, 2012

The Campaign comes to Mada



pre-election fun


Yay for MI!
In 2008 I was in Ohio, volunteering on election-day, knocking on doors and making lots and lots of phone calls. Four years later, I was sitting in a hotel room in Madagascar constantly pressing refresh on my laptop.. Completely different experiences, but both will always be memorable nights. This year, since the need for Obama campaign volunteers in Madagascar was so low, my two friends and I got a hotel room with wifi instead. We decided to wake up at 3am (7pm in the US) to start watching polls come in. As this plan developed, I thought it would be a good idea to make an hour by hour guide, an electoral map and a tally sheet…all on poster paper to be hung in our hotel room! (And they turned out pretty well, even though I had to draw the map with just a headlamp as the power in the hotel went out…)

Half our states were filled in...

By the time 3am rolled around, we had our own Obama HQ, and it seemed like a great idea since this was going to be an election night without TV coverage! Can you imagine? Anyway, our alarms woke us up at 3am and the fun began. We watched polls come in by constantly refreshing our computers. We took occasional naps and colored in our electoral map as states closed. We skyped with friends and family in the US to fill us in on what we missed and we texted all our other volunteer friends with electoral vote updates. I’m pretty sure it was exactly what the Obama campaign’s US headquarters looked like as well. A 12 ft2 room with a mosquito net and a shower curtain for a bathroom door. Anyway…when Ohio was finally called for Obama, all my news website tabs had frozen, and so I relied on the 400 facebook statuses all including the key words “Ohio, re-elected, four more years, OBAMA!” to persuade me that he had won! 

OHIO....and Obama is declared the WINNER

Completed masterpiece....I should probably send this over to CNN
It was a crazy feeling…but, like any campaign HQ, we were extremely ecstatic and watched as the confetti came out of the ceiling…(I wish). We did a little victory dance and then left our hotel to find breakfast (it was 8am afterall…). We went to our favorite restaurant which has a tv that usually plays the French news and with a little persuasion, we convinced the owner to put on BBC in ENGLISH so we could listen to Obama’s victory speech. I’m pretty sure we had more people watching our reactions than people watching the TV, but the speech was so good that Brynna and I couldn’t help but get really excited and clap out loud. There also may have been tears…but that doesn’t surprise anyone who knows me. When customers realized we were Americans, a few of them came over to congratulate us and use their limited English to say YEAH OBAMA!

While experiencing election day in Madagascar is a little different than what I was doing four years ago, I know I’ll always remember coloring in Ohio blue on my hand drawn map of the US! Congrats Obama! Four more years!

GLOW Camp



Feeling good! This past Friday 4 other PCVs and I finished up a GLOW camp (Girls Leading Our World) that we had been planning for the past 6 months. My friend, Brynna, and I did most of the planning, but there were three other PCVs involved too. We each brought four girls from our sites and one Malagasy woman to chaperone and help lead sessions throughout the week.

Girls' room at Rovan'ny Tovovavy
Last Sunday, the first day of the camp, I planned to leave my site around 8:30 with my girls and chaperone. Contrary to the normal “fotoana gasy” (Malagasy time, which means being late), my girls showed up at my house two hours early. I didn’t need to worry about missing our ride! None of my girls had ever been to Tana, the capital, so this was a big adventure! Aside from most of the girls getting carsick and puking out the window, the ride went pretty fast and arrived in Tana around 3. 

Each girl had to bring 12 kapoaka of rice...it adds up quick!
We settled into the Rovan’ny Tovovavy, a church dormitory, with all 25 campers and chaperones in one room, and the PCVs in another. Twenty-five girls in one room…it’s like a sleepover parents would never allow! But they loved it! The first night we had ice breakers, introductions, explained the schedule for the week, introduced journaling, and set out some ground rules. Of course, the power went out during our session, and we had to finish deciding on ground rules with multiple headlamps providing our light.
Monday, our first day, focused on goal setting. The group went to the US Embassy to talk to three panels of women employees. They talked about their education, their jobs, and gave advice for staying in school and finding a job they like. During a break, the girls played with ipads, got to look at the embassy library, and marveled at the automatic soap dispensers and hand driers in the bathrooms. We ate lunch at the Embassy café in a beautiful atrium with table cloths, meals delivered by rolling cart,  and a TV playing CNN coverage of Hurricane Sandy. Everyone was in awe, including the PCVs! In the afternoon we met with another panel of women before heading off to the Federation Malagasy de Football. On our second visit, the girls got to learn about the national soccer team, meet two women working for FIFA and visit the national stadium. By the time we got back to the Rovan’ny Tovovavy the PCVs were exhausted and the girls wanted to go out exploring. It was a really great first day though. 

The girls from Tsarasambo and my chaperone at the National Football Stadium, Mahamasina

Tuesday morning we had a later start, although the girls woke up around 4:30 and therefore it was impossible to sleep past 5. We had breakfast and played games outside while we waited for our visitors. Tuesday’s theme was health, and we worked with peer educators from the NGO Population Services International. We had three sessions led by Malagasy University students, the first about STIs, the second about HIV/AIDS and the third about family planning. The peer educators were amazing and the sessions were fun, interactive, and informative. By the end, the girls were laughing and asking tons of questions, which was great to see. The girls all learned and practiced how to use condoms, learned about different kinds of birth control, and talked about the consequences of early pregnancy. The girls even did condom demos with their eyes closed (since the majority of the girls don’t have electricity). While this is all information that should be covered in schools, most of the girls were hearing some of this information for the first time. Even our adult chaperones were learning new things…
Health day with peer educators from PSI
Wednesday was education day. We took our girls to the EducationUSA Advising Center, an office run by the US Embassy. They learned about resources available to girls wanting to go to University in the United States, and they got to look at books about applying to college, taking the SAT, and finding scholarships. We spent over an hour looking at the books, and when it was time to go, the girls asked if they could stay longer! Unfortunately, we had another meeting to get to. So we went back to the Rovan’ny Tovovavy where we were going to talk to University students studying in Tana. Eleven students came to talk to us, and they started out by showing some videos to the group. We quickly found out that they were religious propaganda, and had to abruptly end that presentation since we can’t (nor do we want to) promote any religion. We eventually got the University students talking about student life and their experiences at the University, and were back on track!

Girls at EducationUSA Advising Center

In the afternoon we were supposed to visit the University of Tana, but midway through the student session we received a message that there were strikes at the University, students throwing rocks at cars, and the police using tear gas. So, we had to cancel that visit and come up with plan B...the ZOO! It was so much fun and I finally understand what parents mean when they say that a perk to having kids is being able to experience childhood again. Seeing our girls run around the zoo and look at animals they’ve never seen before was pretty cool. I even found someone selling cotton candy, so I got to watch my girls eat that weird fluffy stuff on the end of a piece of bamboo.  
Tsarasambo group at Tsimbazaza (the zoo)

That evening, we decided to have a Halloween “party” to teach the girls a little about American holidays! Brynna’s parents sent us a box full of Halloween decorations and candy (THANKS!) so we were able to set up trick or treating in the dorms. The volunteers wore fake vampire teeth, which I thought would be really funny for everyone. However, once all the PCVs were running around in vampire teeth, some of the girls got really scared and hid behind a door. One girl even fell down. Woops. This might have to do with the myth that white people take Malagasy children and steal their organs….Anyway, the trick or treating went well and the girls (and adults) got really into it. Although there were no pumpkins or costumes, it was still a successful Halloween.  

Halloween at Girls Camp!
Thursday was our final day! All our girls came to breakfast in their matching camp shirts, which was perfect since we spent the morning on a city tour of Tana. It’s hard to lose a girl in Tana when you’re in a group of 30 people wearing violet shirts. We drove around Tana, visited the Queen’s Palace that burned down, and got to visit some markets for the girls to buy souvenirs, and drove through a tunnel (which was a terrifying first for some of our girls!).  By the time we got back from our city tour, it was time for lunch and final activities. We had our Malagasy chaperones lead two sessions with the girls, the first about their life goals, and the second about responding to peer pressure. Seeing the girls present their goals of going to the University, working at the US Embassy, and even becoming the chef de region (equivalent of a governor) or a doctor, was a rewarding end to the camp! 

Campers on a Tana city tour.

Tsarasambo group at the Queen's Palace.

East Coast Girls Camp 2012.

Certificate Ceremony!
The camp was exhausting, but definitely worth all the work we put in. We’re hoping to do more camps like these in the future, so we will see…

Wednesday, October 24, 2012

So this is awkward...



So my photography business in Tsarasambo is booming…everyone wants pictures all the time. Which is interesting to me because right now is the “krizy” which is the time of year when no one has money for food. So people are coming to my door asking for money, followed by people at my door asking for pictures (which they pay for…) I don’t understand. 

My biggest client base is teenage girls who walk by my house on the way to middle school. And they’re nice and friendly and I like talking to them. And I don’t mind taking their picture…But yesterday a group of girls asked if I would go down the street to the rice paddy/watering hole/laundry/bathing spot and take their picture there.  I of course said yes, and we went down the road. And before I could do anything, the girls were standing in their underwear in the watering hole wanting me to take pictures of them. WHAT. OMG. WHAT. I didn’t know what to do so I acted really embarrassed and ran away after making up some excuse about my camera being dead.  So that happened…Now when they come back to ask if my camera is charged, I need an actual explanation for why I don’t want to take those pictures. 

I can only imagine what the talk in town would be…

Tuesday, October 2, 2012

Medical Mission with CRMF




After a few weeks at site I headed to Tamatave to help with a medical mission. I managed to catch a private taxi brousse which was great...until they told me I had to pretend to be married to the guy if the police asked...something about not having the right permits to be driving a non-family member? Who knows. Anyway...

I got to Tamatave and met up with a medical team from the NGO Caring Response Madagascar Foundation and they needed PCVs to help translate. It was a two week medical mission, the first week was spent training Malagasy midwives and doctors and doing a practicum at the clinic, and the second week was free clinics in rural areas. I got to translate for pediatric consultations, ultrasound appointments, and other random things that popped up . It was nice to feel useful, and I definitely learned a lot…

I also saw some pretty crazy things. Live birth...so messy. And then I saw a doctor milking a baby boy. (True story! Apparently babies, regardless of gender, can grow breasts from the hormones in breast milk, and therefore can be milked). One of the doctors wanted to show my friend and I this…so she milked the baby boy. I was supposed to explain to the medical student and the mother what was happening…but the entire thing was lost in translation. It’s hard to explain in Malagasy why its possible to milk a baby boy…I’m pretty sure the mother was very confused. 

I could only help them for a week because then I had to go to Tana for my one year conference with my entire stage. One year into our service and our entire group (27 of us) are still here! That is rare in PC so we felt pretty good. And Peace Corps rewarded us with good food…The week of training was really helpful and it was so nice to see everyone again. Back in Tana we went out for lots of good food (BAGELS AND LOX HAS COME TO MADA) and caught up on internet time. All good things. And now back to site for a few busy weeks until girls camp!